Iceland - Very Cool.

I've wanted to go to Iceland for a long time, so when I finally had it all booked up it was very exciting! Before we knew it the time had come to get on the plane and we were landing in Reykjavik and shivering in the freezing air as we waited to board the bus that would take us to our hotel.

We’d booked a Northern Lights tour for the night we arrived, as I knew that if you didn't see the lights on your first trip you could go on the tour again the next night, and the next… until you did see them! I figured we had the best chance if we had the full 5 nights to try, and as seeing the Lights was one of the main reasons Iceland had been on my Must Visit list for so long, I was determined to give it my best shot! As it turned out the tour on our arrival day got cancelled due to heavy cloud cover, so the chance of seeing them that night was gone. Instead, we explored the streets of Reykjavik near to our hotel, and enjoyed a beer or two at a couple of the many bars we passed along the way.

Waking up on the morning of day 2 we set off to see more of the city in the daylight. During Winter months there’s only around 6 hours of daylight a day, so we were determined to make the most of it! Reykjavik is a relatively small city, and feels a lot more like a town than a city. The streets are quite narrow and there were lots of festive decorations around which added to the cosy feel, despite the cold weather! We headed down to the harbour to see the Viking boat statue before taking refuge in Harpa, the striking concert hall which stands proudly on the sea front. Entry is free, and we enjoyed warming up over a hot chocolate and people watching through the glass sided building.

Harpa is stop 1 on the City Sightseeing bus tour, so we decided to hop on to see more of the far afield parts of Reykjavik that we hadn’t been able to reach on foot. I’ve used City Sightseeing in numerous other cities and always enjoyed using the frequent buses to see the city from the top deck of a bus. So, I was surprised when a small mini van arrived for the tour and found out each stop was only served once an hour! Still, we jumped on and plugged our earphones into the audio commentary and decided to do the whole loop of the tour to get a feel for the city.  In total, the tour took around 45 minutes and listening to the commentary did teach us a bit more about Reykjavik, and the buildings we were passing. The ticket was valid for 24 hours so we were able to “hop on and hop off” as much as we liked in that time, but as hopping off meant having to wait an hour to then hop back on, it wasn’t a realist option for us. Perhaps the buses are bigger and more frequent during Summer, but it’s not something I’d recommend during the Winter months.

The Northern Lights tour was cancelled again that night (more cloud, grrrr!) so after a meal and some more beers (Happy Hour is from 4pm to 8pm so we made the most of the lower prices!) we headed to bed as us girls had an early start the next day as we’d booked to visit the Blue Lagoon!

We were booked onto the first bus of the day which meant a hotel pick up at 8:30am, when it was still pitch black outside (the sun rises at about 10am!) so arriving at the Blue Lagoon in the half-light felt very atmospheric. The volcanic rocks and powder blue pools around the entrance added to the feel that we were entering another world! We excitedly changed into our swimsuit and robes and headed outside for our first glimpse of the lagoon. We’d seen it on TV and in pictures of course, but to see it for real was amazing, and just as exciting as we’d anticipated. Taking off our robes we were freezing but as soon as we were in the water it was lovely and warm! Because we’d been on the first bus of the day the lagoon wasn't too busy, so we were able to float around at our leisure and apply face packs without too many crowds.

I’d booked a massage (you must do this in advance as the slots fill up very fast) and was really looking forward to it as it was an “in water treatment” and promised to be the most unusual massage I’d ever had! I wasn’t let down – my therapist helped me onto a float and then covered me with a blanket before dunking my body under the water to warm the blanket. She gave me a lovely relaxing massage which was made even better by the floaty feeling of being on the water, and despite the cold temperature I was always toasty thanks to that blanket and regular dunkings! The massage was a fantastic and unique experience and although a little pricey, I’d certainly recommend it as it made my visit to the already awesome Blue Lagoon even more memorable.

Thanks to the early bus we were back in Reykjavik by mid-afternoon and had plenty of time to get ourselves dried and fed before the Northern Lights tour, which was finally ON that night! It was with excited anticipation we boarded the bus with the other eager passengers, and set off to the first stop of the hunt for the Lights. It wasn’t long until the excitement turned to frustration however, as our driver took us to a small café where we would “wait for the clouds to pass for 30 minutes.” That 3 minutes turned into 2 hours, and despite patiently looking up at the sky we saw only a slight slither of light from behind a cloud, and the driver decided to call it a night as that slither of light “didn’t count” and cloud cover meant there was no more chance of seeing the Northern Lights that night. Two of our group were heading home the next day, so we were all gutted and returned back to our hotels feeling dejected and tired.

We woke the next day to a hurricane warning. Not quite what we’d had in mind for the girls’ last morning in Reykjavik, but we soldiered on nonetheless and headed down to the harbour for one last famous hot dog for them, and some souvenir shopping before waving them off on the airport bus. After they’d gone we decided to shelter from the weather with a visit to Hallgrimskirkja church, which sits on top of a hill looking out over Reykjavik. We passed on the lift to the top (which offers views of the whole city but charges a fee) and decided on the free option of an English language service from the local priest.  Hallgrimskirkja is a beautiful church with impressive high ceilings and an enormous organ, so to experience a service there was lovely. We could hear the wind howling outside and being on a hill leaving the church meant we got the brunt of the terrible weather and were nearly blown away as we headed back down to warm up in our hotel room!

That evening we managed to get out to eat dinner at a nearby restaurant but the hurricane meant we had to hurry back to our room and take safe shelter. Needless to say, this was not the weather for flying, and the girls’ flight home had been cancelled – they were holed up at an airport hotel and had to phone work to explain they wouldn't be in as planned the next morning! Of course, the Northern Lights tour that evening was also cancelled too. We were starting to think we weren't meant to see them.

The next morning we woke early, as we were booked onto a Golden Circle tour. Much to our happy surprise, the tour was going ahead as the worst of the storm had passed. There was now snow falling but the worst of the wind had died down, so we jumped back on the bus and nabbed the front seats for the best views as we drove through beautiful Iceland.

The Golden Circle is a well-trodden tourist trail, but for good reason.  It covers around 300km looping from Reykjavik and back, and takes in a geothermally active valley featuring the active geyser Strokkur, the huge and impressive Gulfoss waterfalls, and stunning Þingvellir National Park where the tectonic plates of Eurasia and North America meet, albeit with a gape between them which is visible as you pass by. All three locations were fantastic, and the snow only added to the magical atmosphere. Watching Strokkur blow was hugely impressive, as was our first glimpse of roaring Gulfoss, as it’s waters crashed down. Þingvellir National Park has been used to film scenes for Game of Thrones, so people on the coach who were fans of the series really enjoyed seeing locations from the show. I don’t watch it myself, but still loved walking through the park and admiring the beautiful snowy lakes, waterfalls and rocks. It did feel like we’d stepped back in time to the years when Viking parliaments were held there and the drowning pool was in use for law breakers. Out Golden Circle day tour was fab, and I’d definitely recommend anyone heading to Iceland does one if they have the time!

Even though we’d had an amazing day already, it was about to get better… the Northern Lights tour that night was ON! Even better, we could see lots of blue sky above the snowy streets, and felt quietly confident that tonight could be the night. Back on the bus we were taken back to the national park, as earlier tours had seen the start of the lights there, and as soon as we stepped off the coach we could already see more than we had on our previous attempt. Three distinct lines were forming – white and fluffy, but not like clouds. As we craned our necks to the sky the lines got more prominent, and we could also see slithers of light coming from the cloud base where the lines began. It was beautiful, but not the green colour we’d seen on photographs… our Northern Lights were white, with an occasional minty hue to them. Apparently cameras make the greens show darker, so although the naked eye does see green on particularly strong shows, it’s more usual for the colours to be fainter when you’re looking at them compared to photos. This was proven when some photos of the night were shared on Facebook… the picture below was taken by another lady on our bus, and it appears much greener than we saw. Still, there was no doubt about it this time – we had seen the Northern Lights! It was the perfect last night of our Iceland trip, and we headed back to bed with smiles on our faces, which remained there the next day as we boarded the plane back to England, and back to reality. Iceland, you are magical. I hope I will be back again one day.

We booked our tours in advance through Wow and they were operated in country by Reykjavik Excursions. We stayed at Centerhotel Klopp and flew with Icelandair. All come recommended!

With additional thanks also to Ester at the Blue Lagoon for her help booking our packages and massages in advance.

India 2013... Goa time - Candolim

It was yet another early start after the excitement of our visit to the Taj Mahal and Agra Fort as we were being picked up at 7am to head back to Delhi airport. We had flights booked to head down to Goa on the brilliantly named Spice Jet, and were please to find an as yet un-sampled Indian beer in the departures lounge before we took off. The flight took 2 and a half hours, and although obviously more expensive than the train would have been, it was the right call for our trip as we were on a tight schedule and unfortunately didn't have 36 hours to spare to experience the train journey!

Landing in Goa we were greeted by Anil, the uncle of a friend of Gemma's, who had generously helped to arrange a car for us, as well as accommodation in Candolim - our first Goan stop. The drive there took just under 2 hours, and we were greeted by the friendly housekeeper who showed us around our villa at Alcon Holiday Village and helped us to settle in. As soon as we'd showered we headed out for a wander along the main road in Candolim, and settled on a restaurant which had a lovely patio area and a band playing. We ate delicious fish curries and enjoyed a few beers before heading back past the local cows and beeping rickshaws, to our villa - where we bravely battled a giant cockroach before calling it a night!

The next morning was our first lie in of the trip, and we enjoyed it! After a delicious traditional Indian breakfast at the hotel attached to or villa we decided on a relaxed day, and made the 2 minute walk from our villa to the beach. The "season" hadn't really kicked in yet (things get going in Goa around late October) but a few early birds had set up shop already and we were able to hire sun loungers (and a parasol for me and my pale skin!) as well as treating ourselves to massages, beers, and a few goodies from ladies selling jewellery. We spent a few chilled out hours there, chatting to the guys running the sun lounger hut, and watching the sun set. It was a perfect first day in Goa, and after another delicious meal out, we retired to bed ready for the next morning's adventures.... Polly, Gemma and I were off to visit some volunteer projects...

Easter Escape... Isle of Wight

Happy Easter!

I hope everyone's had a lovely Bank Holiday weekend and made the most of those lovely 4 days off work! To make sure we did, Dan and I decided (very last minute!) to head to the Isle of Wight. I hadn't been since I was 2 years old, so in reality it was my first visit, and I was excited.

We drove to Chichester on Thursday night so that we were nice and close to the ferry terminal, and stayed in the trusty Travelodge before an early start for the 8:30am ferry from Portsmouth to Fishbourne. The ferry crossing only took 45 minutes and I enjoyed standing on the deck watching the Isle get closer and closer, and lots of sailing boats passing by in the wind.

Bright and windy on the Solent

As we arrived so early, we had the whole day to explore, and made sure we did! First stop was The Needles Park where we enjoyed the views of the iconic Needles rocks, and decided to get the chair lift down to the beach at Alum Bay. Alum Bay is known for it's colourful cliffs and sand, and it was lovely to see up close the purple and yellow tinged rock and look out to sea and the Needles. The chairlift itself was a little nerve-wracking as I don't like heights, but offered great views and was good fun!

Yikes! It's steep...

Coloured cliffs

The Needles

After filling a souvenir bottle with coloured sand in the Needles Park and trying our hand at hook-a-duck and the hoopla, we were back in the car and singing along to IoW Radio back on track with our drive around the coast. We stopped off in Freshwater Bay, before lunch in Shanklin, which was a lovely town and somewhere I'd like to see more of in the future.

Our final stop of the day was The Garlic Farm where we were unfortunately too late for a farm tour, but still enjoyed tasting the different foodstuffs on offer, and a browse in the farm shop, where Dan picked up a garlic beer to try later!

We stayed in the Chad Hill Hotel in Sandown, which was a lovely little B&B. Sandown itself was forgettable unfortunately - the pier was tired and there didn't seem much going on in the town itself. We headed to Newport for dinner and although it was nice to see another town on the island, Newport was much like any other English town - Pizza Express, Yate's, and so on. Next time we'll stick to Shanklin!

The next morning we were up early and after a delicious breakfast at the B&B we were headed back to the ferry, and home. It was only a whistle-stop trip, but a lovely one, and I'll definitely be making a return visit to see the things we missed out on, and revisit those we enjoyed.

Not exactly typical beach wear but still loving it... me on Alum Bay beach

India 2013 - Agra day... Taj Mahal!

After the excitement of arriving in India for our first day we had a very early start on day 2 - alarms going off in order to meet driver Ajay at 5:45am... eek! No one minded though, as we were off to see the Taj Mahal!

Ajay brought with him a colleague, Rajesh, who spoke fluent English and was to be our guide for the day. He helped us buy our tickets and waited for us while we queued in the non-Indian womens queue for entry to the Taj (tourists are also charged more to get in, although at only around eight pounds we had no complaints!) We'd decided to get to the Taj so early as I'd heard it was best to go first thing to avoid the bigger crowds, and the hottest weather. I was pleased we did! Obviously it was still very busy (this is a wonder of the world after all!) but we were able to stroll around without too many crowds, and take time with photos. The early morning mist added to the occasion too - that first glimpse of the Taj, through the mist, was very atmospheric and a great climax to the story Rajesh had told us about Shah Jahan, the man who built the Taj Mahal as a tribute to his wife, Mumtaz.

I don't need to tell you that the Taj Mahal was an awesome sight, and that seeing it was the highlight of my visit. That goes without saying! I don't need to show you my photos either, because my amateur attempts can easily be bettered with a quick google search! I am going to though, so here goes...

Team shot!

View of one of the mosques from inside the Taj

As this was our only full day in Agra we were determined to make the most of it, and after a quick pit stop we were back in the car and on our way to see a traditional workshop where the beautiful marble mosaics like the ones that adorn the Taj are still make. We watched as the workmen painstakingly crafted items, and were able to see (and buy!) the finished products in the gift shop.

From there, we headed to Agra Fort, Shah Jahan's palace and the place he was imprisoned for the final years of his life, overthrown by his son who stole his crown. He lived out his days under house arrest in his bedroom, sitting on his balcony and staring across the river for views of his beloved Taj Mahal. The Fort is less well preserved than the Taj, but still well worth a visit, and we enjoyed having Rajesh with us (as we had at the Taj) as he was able to share interesting facts and stories with us to enhance the trip, and having a guide with us also meant we weren't hassled by people wanting to sell us things, or guide us themselves. I'd certainly recommend investing in a guide to anyone heading to Agra.

Final stop of the day was the site over the river from the Taj Mahal where Shah Jahan had planned - and started - to build a second Taj, identical to the first but in black marble, not white. He'd never completed it as his son overthrew him and kept him under house arrest at the fort before he had chance, but the site is a great place to go to view the Taj at sunset, and take some photos. We could see how busy the Taj still was, people swarming around in huge groups, and this made us even more pleased we'd got up early to beat the rush! It was a lovely end to our day in Agra, and we headed back to the hotel happy and enjoyed a delicious final meal before bed, and another early start to get back to Delhi, and a flight on to the next stage of our adventure, in Goa...

Had to do it. Selfie at the site of the Black Taj!

India 2013 - day 1!

I went to India 5 months ago, and so far have only written one post about it. Bad blogger. So, in an attempt to put that right, here's my account of our first day...

We flew into Delhi in 2 groups - Polly and Jenny first, then Gemma, Hannah and I around 6 hours later. My colleagues at Idex had arranged a driver for our time in the North, and he'd picked up Pol and Jen to take them to a guesthouse to relax and wait for us to fly in. We landed and were met in arrivals by the girls and smiley driver Ajay, and it was straight on the road to our first destination - Agra!

The journey to Agra took around 5 hours by car. It's also possible to take the train, which is a cheaper option and I'm told a lot of fun. We decided to go for the car however, as we were on a short timescale and wanted the convenience. We were also lucky to have the support of Ajay thanks to Idex, so it was the perfect option for our trip.

Arriving into Agra itself we got caught up in some hectic traffic - many, many cars, trucks and bikes all vying for a gap in the roads, and herds of cows being given right of way over any vehicles, while monkeys darted around eating bananas and jumping from rooftops. It was a crazy welcome to Agra, but when we arrived at our hotel, the Radisson blu (thank you for the travel agent rate rooms!) it was a calming contrast - beautiful and relaxing. We jumped straight in the pool and enjoyed some cocktails, which was to become a theme of our time there!

As a self confessed "cheapskate backpacker" the luxury of Radisson blu was a bit of a shock to my system! However, it was absolutely lovely and well worth the (not at all unreasonable) price we paid for our stay. Our rooms were fantastic - spacious, clean and with a well stocked bathroom and mini bar! The beds were ridiculously comfy and the free WiFi was very handy for keeping people back home updated (translation: jealous!) about our trip. We ate in the hotel both nights and the food was delicious - a poolside  bbq on night 1, and an Indian tasting feast on night 2 (my favourite meal of the stay). We also enjoyed the varied and tasty buffet breakfast, and several drinks in the hotel bar as well as by the pool. Finally, Polly, Jenny and I treated ourselves to a massage in the hotel spa (lush!) and we all made full use of the pool and sun loungers.

Our first day in India finished with us wearily calling it a night around 11:30, after chatting with a group from the British Legion who had brought their fathers and grandfathers to visit the battlefields in Northern India where they'd served in their youth. They were finishing their trip the way we were starting ours - a couple of nights chilling out at Radisson blu and a visit to the Taj Mahal. We headed to bed tired but excited for what the next day would bring...

 This is the life! The pool area, and Gemma and my room

I am lucky, many are not. My thoughts on International Women's Day

It's International Women's Day today, and I've seen various reactions to that on social media, one of them being "why is this still relevant?" As a woman (and feminist - say it loud and proud!) who lives in the UK, I appreciate that many of our battles have been won, and that I am very lucky. However, this is International Women's Day, and many women all over the world (some closer to home than you would expect) are not so lucky, and it's their rights that we still need to join together and fight for.

I'm not going to talk in statistics, but for example...

The right to choose if I continue with an unplanned pregnancy (or not)
If I fall pregnant unexpectedly, I can choose to have an abortion. I can make that choice with the support of counsellors and medical professionals and have the procedure in a safe, clean environment. There are many women around the world (and as close to home as Ireland) who do not have that option. Women seeking illegal and dangerous abortions, or flying far from home to have the procedure secretly, alone. Women having unwanted babies, and babies being born to women who resent and neglect them. I am lucky, many are not.

The right to vote (or not)
We all know of the Suffragettes and their fight to give women the vote. Those brave and trail blazing women are the reason I can walk into a room and put a cross in a box, why I can have my voice heard when my country elects it's government. Many women in countries around the world still don't have that right. I am lucky, many are not.

The right to drive (or not)
I have a driving licence, and I own a car. I can get in that car by myself, and drive without fear of being arrested. In Saudi Arabia (and maybe other countries, I don't know) it's illegal to do this. I am lucky, many are not.

The right to NOT have my genitals mutilated
My genitals are intact, I am not scarred. I can urinate and menstruate without pain, I can have (and enjoy) pain-free sex when I am ready to. There is no (or not) on this point, just a great big NOT. Female Genital Mutilation is happening, it is happening to British girls, and girls around the world. We should not turn a blind eye, or pretend it isn't happening because it is, and it's abuse. I won't rant any further, but please read up on this one, and join the fight. Daughters of Eve is a good place to start. I am lucky, many are not.

The right to choose who I marry (or not)
If I want to get married, I can. I can marry a man or woman, someone of any religion or race. If I don't want to get married, I don;t have to. I can stay single forever, or live happily with my partner in unmarried bliss, and no one will judge me or ostracise me. If I get married and change my mind, I can get a divorce and move on. There are many, many people all over the world who do not have these rights (and I acknowledge that not all of these people are women, but the point remains valid). Child brides, women forced to marry their rapist to preserve their "honour," forced marriage, gay couples unable to celebrate (or in some countries even publicly show) their relationships - the list is long, and sad. I am lucky, many are not.


I'm sure there are more points, and if I sat and researched I'm positive there would be many more things I could include in this post, but this is just my stream of thoughts put onto a page. The joy of blogging!

So, there you have it. Why I will be celebrating International Women's Day today, and supporting women's rights as an out and proud feminist throughout the year. Go, girls!

Three amazing women - my mom Chris (in blue) and her friends, my "aunties" Kate (in white) and Mary (pink) xxx

Save a Life in the New Year!

So I've been meaning to write this post for a while and a letter I received today reminded me, so here it is!

It's actually good timing - a new year, people making resolutions to do new things, be better, help out and so on... here's a very easy way to do all of that - give blood!

I've been giving blood for just over 4 years now, after being encouraged to do so by my friend Reg, who is a super donor and well on his way to 100 donations. It was one of those things I always thought I should do, but never got around to. Reg made sure I had no excuses, and came along with me that first time. Now I'm addicted - I give as regularly as I can (not as regularly as I'd like, as travelling to certain places means serving donor bans for safety) and have now made 11 donations so far.

I wanted to write a post about my experiences of blood donation to hopefully inspire people who are thinking about becoming a donor to take the plunge and go for it!

Blood sessions are held very regularly, and at lots of venues. I'm confident there's one near you which you can make an appointment for. You show up, fill in a questionnaire and take a drink of water or squash (being well hydrated makes the donation faster and easier). Then you're called to see a nurse who will go over the questionnaire with you, and check any answers which need elaborating on. It's nothing too intrusive - travel and medication questions and yes there are a couple about your sex life, but simple yes/no answers and no judgement.

If your questionnaire answers show that you're eligible to donate the nurse will take a pin prick sample of blood to test your iron levels. I just look away at this point, and it's easy and fast! If your iron levels are ok it's onto the next stage, when a donation bed is available.

When you're sat on the bed (which is actually now a swanky chair which tilts back to a lying down position!) the nurse will clean your arm and check your personal details, and then it's time to be hooked up. This is another point I don't look, and I know it's one of the main reasons a lot of people don't donate. What I'd like to say that is I don't like needles, I don't like pain and I'm a bit of a baby about both. But, the nurses are always lovely and very professional - I wiggle my toes and hum to the radio and it's all over and ready in a few seconds. If I can do it, so can anyone!

Once the needle is in it's time to relax and let your vein do it's thing. To speed up the process I clench and unclench my fist while listening to the radio, but I see people reading books, playing games, listening to their own music, chatting to a supporting friend, whatever floats your boat! It's about ten minutes until the donation bag is full and when the machine beeps to signal that it's ready, a nurse will come over to take the needle out (look away now!) and pop on your plaster. They'll sit you up nice and slowly in that swanky chair, and when you're ready it's over to the refreshment table!

I always go for a cup of tea and some custard cream biccies, but the choice is yours - tea, coffee, squash, crisps, all sorts of biscuits, chocolate... the refreshment table is a reward well worth the donation! They also have stickers (I love a "be nice to me, I gave blood" one on my jumper!) and you can grab a key ring with your blood type on too.

All in, I usually take an hour out for the donation process and always feel great afterwards. Plus, as you make more donations you work towards awards (I recently got my bronze!) which is a nice treat and makes you feel like you're in a little club. Plus, you can't beat the feel good buzz of knowing your donation could save a life.

I hope I've inspired someone reading this to give blood. It's a great thing to do if you're able, and I really recommend getting involved. You can find out more and sign up to a donor session here: www.blood.co.uk